2022. május 7., szombat

Base camp and Kala patar

Lobuche-böl Gorak shep-be vándoroltunk tovább, ami 5164 m-en van. Az elején tüzö napsütés, majd a nap másik felében jéghideg. 5000 m felett már rohadtul fájt a fejem annak ellenére, hogy bevettem mindenféle gyògyszert. Itt kezdett inkább tùlèlötùrára váltani a dolog. Gorak shep-ben egy rövid ebédet követöen indultunk tovább a 2 órányira lévö Alaptáborhoz, hòesésben, amiböl visszafele hóvihar lett. Ùgyhogy tùl sok mindent nem láttunk, de megcsináltuk! A szálláson próbáltunk megszáradni az egyetlen kályha mellett. Nekem még itt sikerült egy fürdést megejtenem. Kaptam egy vödör forrò vizet meg egy sufnit kint. 
Éjjel kockává fagytunk hálòzsák ellenère, az ablak bejegesedett és a vizünk is befagyott. Így indultunk reggel 04.30-kor Kala Pathart mászni (around 5600 m), ahonnan elvileg nagyon jò a kilátás az Everestre. Én kb 100 m emelkedésig bírtam, ahol már fájtak az ujjaim a hidegtöl (min minusz 10 fok volt) és hányingerem volt, ùgyhogy visszafordultam (nem voltam ezzel egyedül). Reggeli után még ugyanaz nap lemászrunk Pheriche-be (kb 20 km), és innentöl kezdve lefelé minden nap kétszer annyi távot tettünk meg, mint fölfelé. Az egyetlen hiba, hogy az ùt kb hullámvasùt, ùgy folyamatosan föl-le-föl-le, így elég fárasztò. Másnap Namche, utána pedig vissza Luklába a reptérre. Az éjjenzö tömeg dajnos elmaradt. :( A repülöven hajnali indulás volt tervezve, de rossz idö miatt végül kb csak 9-kor szálltunk fel Ktm felé. Vissza a zajba.. Még az nap találkoztam Theresával, egy német ismerösömmel, akivel 5 éve ugyanígy random találkoztunk Libanonban.
Tegnap várost néztünk egy idegenvezetövel, aki borzalmas volt, mert nem mondott semmi értlemeset, aztán este hivatalos voltam egy nepáli orvoshoz vacsorára (akivel a svéd kapcsolatok vannak). Most a reptéren ülök Svédország felé.



From Lobuche we went up to Gorak shep, an other small settlement at 5164 m. We started in bright sunshine nearby the Khumbu glacier but the other half the weather turned cloudy and cold. Above 5000 m I really didn’t feel well and had a lot of headache despite the mountain sickness medicine I took the same day. So that day started to be more like a struggle than a nice trip for me. Finally I pushed myself up to Gorak shep where we had lunch and just after that we continued to the Everest Base camp which took 2 hours to reach. It was snowing a lot which escalated to a kind of snow storm on the way back. So when we arrived we saw only the sign and some tents (as you are not allowed to actually be inside the camp when you are not climbing the mountain). Still a very uniqe experience! We walked back to Gorak shep and gathered around the one and only heater in the middle of the restaurant. Shortly after we went to sleep in the rooms which were freezing cold. Just before I took a “shower” which meant I got a bucket of hot water to use in the outside shower. So here there was no running water and the temperature in the rooms eas was surely below zero as there was ice on the window in the morning and my water froze. Oxygen saturation is 87%.



The next day we started early because the plan was to climb Kala patar, a nearby mountain at around 5600 m, from where you are supposed to have a great view of Mt Everest. So we started as early as 04.30. Outside everything was covered by snow and it was freezing cold, at least minus 10. The route started with a steep ascend where I got nausea and also after 10 mins I felt that my fingers are aching bc of the cold. So I needed a pasue and after that I managed to climb up to around 5350 m but partly bc of the lack of oxygen, partly bc of the cold I couldn’t continue. It felt like a survival challenge. I took some photos and climbed down where I tried to warm myself up in my sleeping bag which was impossible even after an hour. Slowly the others who climbed to the top also came back, we had breakfast and shortly after started to walk the way back. 20 km, we did in one day which we did in two days on the way here and arrived to Pheriche at around 4200 m. 



The day after we continued our descending towards Namche, another 20 kms, with a lot of steps and also surprisingly a lot of upphills which looks like is the characteristics of the base camp trek. It is like a roller coaster. We arrived to Namche around 6 pm, really tired but fit enough to take some celebration drinks at the irish pub. The accomodation here was a luxury compared to the ones higher up, mainly because we didn’t freeze to death at night and for dinner they even had meat (chicken). 

Then an other day of an other 20 kms back to Lukla which should have been “down to Lukla” but bc of the up and downs it felt like we walk upwards. Until this time almost everybody in the group had some form of coughing or runny nose and we were walking almost without talking. When we arrived to Lukla I somehow expected some celebrating crowd on both sides of the street as we are marching but sadly nothing like this has happened. :( Instead we went to the Buddha Lodge just beside the airport. Had a late chicke dinner again, said goodbye to the porters and went to bed (soooo warm!!!). 



On the last day we woke up early again at 5 am to catch the first flights to Kathmandu. Although it didn’t come because of cloudy weather so finally we took off at 9 am. The flight was a bit less scary then on the eay here. After a half an hour we landed in noisy Kathmandu again. What a contrast! Afterwords I was resting some hours in the hotel bed (luxury! Even if the tap water was sometimes black), I was meeting with Theresa, a german friend whom I knew from Budapest. I didn’t know she was in Nepal, but luckily she found out from my facebook post. Last time we meet randomly just like this in Lebanon. 



Yesterday we had some sightseeing tour with the worst guide who really didn’t bother telling anything. We spent some time at Patan Dourbar square and then at Pashupatinath Temple where hindus burn the dead bodies. Really not my favourite place…
In the evening I was invited for dinner at Dr Indra, the nepali orthopaedic surgeon who has some connections to Sweden. They live on the other end of the city, at a residential area, it took an hour for the taxi driver to take me there. We had a lovely dinner and then they even drove me back to my hotel. Afterwords I joined the other Hungarians at a restaurant with live music which was a nice ending to the whole 2 months.



Now I am sitting at Ktm airport, waiting to check in. It has been an unbelievable 2 months, a lot of variety of erverything, won’t be easy to continue life in Sweden after this. And I can’t wait for the opportunity to come back already!

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